Highlighter Makeup: When Was It Invented and How Did It Evolve?

Confused about highlighter’s true origin? It’s not just one product but a timeline of innovation. I’ll guide you through its evolution from studio secret to makeup staple.

Highlighter makeup as a product category started in the early 1990s with YSL Touche Éclat¹ (1992). It went mainstream with MAC Strobe Cream (2000) and peaked during the 2015–2016 “strobing” trend. Today’s formulas favor sheer, skin-real glow over heavy shimmer.

So, we know the key dates. But how did we get from subtle brightening to the blinding glow that defined a generation of makeup lovers? The journey from a film set trick to a global beauty category is a fascinating story for any brand founder. It shows how a technique can become a product, and how a product can define a trend. Let’s explore the full origin story.

The Origin Story—From Hollywood Glow to Category Birth?

Think highlighter is a recent invention? Its real story began on Hollywood film sets, using light to sculpt faces long before it was a product in a compact.

Highlighter evolved from professional makeup artists using lighting and custom mixes to create a "glow" on camera. YSL’s Touche Éclat (1992) and MAC’s Strobe Cream (2000) were pivotal products that brought this professional technique to consumers, creating a new product category.

The idea of using light to enhance facial features isn’t new. In the golden age of Hollywood, makeup artists were masters of illusion. They didn’t have "highlighter"; they used Vaseline, powders, and clever lighting to make stars like Marlene Dietrich appear luminous on black-and-white film. This was a technique, not a product. The first major shift came in 1992 with YSL’s Touche Éclat. It wasn’t a shimmer bomb. It was a sheer, light-reflecting liquid in a click-pen, designed to brighten under-eyes and high points. It was revolutionary, reportedly selling six pens per minute. This was the birth of the "highlighting" concept for consumers. Then, in 2000, MAC launched Strobe Cream. As makeup artists told NewBeauty in 2021, this was the product that brought a pearlescent, moisturized glow to the masses. It bridged the gap between skincare and makeup. From my perspective in product development, these two launches created the foundation for the entire category. They proved there was a market for products dedicated solely to adding light and dimension.

Pigments, Textures, and Tools—What Makes a Highlighter “Highlight”?

Ever wonder what makes a highlighter shine? It’s not magic, but a precise science. The wrong formula or tool can create a chalky stripe instead of a seamless glow.

Highlighters work by using light-reflective pigments² like mica and titanium dioxide. The size of these particles determines the finish—from a subtle sheen to a metallic shine. The base formula (liquid, cream, or powder) and the brush shape control the final payoff on the skin.

From a manufacturing standpoint, a highlighter’s "glow" is a carefully engineered system. It’s all about how light interacts with the product on your skin.

The Science of Glow: Pigments and Particles

The core ingredients are light-reflective agents.

• Mica and Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂): These are the workhorses. Mica provides the pearlescent shimmer, while TiO₂ adds brightness and opacity. As a manufacturer, we must ensure our mica is ethically sourced and that all pigments comply with regulations like the FDA’s color additive guidelines.
• Particle Size: This is critical. Smaller particles (5-15 microns) create a subtle, wet-look sheen. Larger particles (20-50 microns) produce a more visible, metallic, or glittery effect.

The Formula Base: From Balm to Powder

The pigments need a delivery system.

• Anhydrous Balms/Creams: These oil-based formulas give a dewy, "wet-skin" finish.
• Liquid Emulsions (Oil-in-Water): Think MAC Strobe Cream³. These offer a natural, blendable glow.
• Pressed Powders: The most common format, offering high impact and control.

The Tool: Why Brush Geometry Matters

The brush is not an accessory; it’s part of the application system. A fan brush picks up less product for a diffused look. A dense, tapered dome concentrates cream or liquid for a precise pop. This is why we advise clients to develop their brushes and formulas together.

Market Milestones and Trend Data—When Did Glow Go Mainstream?

Remember when everyone was "strobing"? That trend didn’t happen overnight. Data shows a clear timeline of how highlighter went from a niche product to a global phenomenon.

The highlighter market⁵ exploded around 2015-2016, driven by the social media "strobing" trend. Google Trends shows a sharp rise in searches then. This led to blockbuster products like BECCA’s "Champagne Pop," which became a top-seller in the U.S. according to NPD Group.

The journey from a pro-MUA secret to a mainstream obsession has clear milestones. After YSL and MAC laid the groundwork, the category simmered for years. The real explosion happened with the rise of social media.

The "Strobing" Boom

Around 2015, the term "strobing"—highlighting without contouring—took over. A quick look at Google Trends data for "highlighter makeup" shows a dramatic spike globally during 2015-2016. Beauty influencers on YouTube and Instagram showcased intense, reflective glows, and brands responded. This era gave us iconic best-sellers. BECCA’s Shimmering Skin Perfector in "Champagne Pop," created with influencer Jaclyn Hill, became a phenomenon. In 2020, the NPD Group named it the best-selling highlighter in the U.S., a testament to its impact.

The Shift to "Skin-Realism"

Today, the trend has softened. While the metallic pop is still an option, many consumers now prefer a more "skin-real" or "glass-skin" finish. This means formulas are becoming sheerer, with finer particles for a believable, dewy look. For brand founders, this is a key insight. Your highlighter assortment needs to cater to both the high-impact lovers and those seeking a subtle, everyday glow.

Spec’ing for Success—How Should Brands Build Highlighters and Brushes Together?

Developing a new highlighter? A great formula can be ruined by the wrong brush. To succeed, you must think about the product and its applicator as a single system.

Brands should develop highlighters and brushes together. Match the formula (powder, cream, liquid) to the brush shape (fan, tapered, duo-fiber) to control the finish. Offer shades across undertones (gold, pearl, peach) and ensure ethical sourcing and quality control for consumer trust.

As a manufacturer, I’ve seen brands succeed and fail based on their product development strategy. For highlighters, success means thinking about the formula, shade, and brush as one cohesive unit. Here’s how we guide our clients.

1. Match Formula to Brush

We already discussed how brush geometry impacts payoff. A brand should spec these together. If you’re creating a sheer balm for a "wet-skin" look, a dense dome brush is perfect for targeted application. For a high-impact powder, a fan brush offers a diffused sweep, while a smaller, denser brush provides that pop. We establish brush-laydown Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) to ensure the payoff is consistent from batch to batch.

2. Strategize Your Shades

A single "universal" shade is a myth. A successful range considers undertones.

• Warm Undertones: Gold, champagne, bronze.
• Cool Undertones: Pearl, silver, icy pink.
• Neutral Undertones: Peach, rose gold.
  Offer a gradient of intensity within each undertone family to cater to a wider range of skin tones.

3. Build in Trust and Quality

Today’s consumer is savvy.

• Sustainability: Use ethically sourced mica⁶ with clear audit trails. We help clients source materials from suppliers who are part of the Ethical Mica Initiative. Using post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials for compacts or pens also builds buyer confidence.
• Quality Control: We test highlighter payoff under mixed lighting conditions (from warm 2700K to cool 6500K) to ensure the glow looks good everywhere, not just in a studio.

Frequently Asked Questions

• When was highlighter makeup invented?
  Modern highlighter products emerged in the early 1990s (e.g., YSL Touche Éclat, 1992), and the category mainstreamed with MAC Strobe Cream in 2000, with social media “strobing” popularizing stronger highlight around 2015–2016.

• Who invented highlighter?
  There’s no single inventor. Techniques evolved from Hollywood lighting tricks, and brands like YSL and MAC commercialized highlight-forward products.

• What pigments make highlighters glow?
  Micro-fine mica, titanium dioxide, and specialty pearls (interference pigments) reflect and scatter light. Particle size and load determine subtle sheen vs. metallic shine.

• What brush is best for highlighter?
  It depends on the formula and desired finish:
  ▫ Fan: Soft, diffused glow with powders.
  ▫ Tapered/dome: Precise placement for liquids/creams.
  ▫ Duo-fiber: Buildable, translucent blending.

• Did strobing replace contouring?
  No. Strobing became a major trend in 2015–2016 favoring highlight-only looks, but contouring remains a popular technique. Many brands now offer products that support both, as well as more subtle, skin-real finishes.

Conclusion

From Hollywood secret to a makeup essential, highlighter’s evolution is a story of science and trends. Developing the right formula, shade, and brush together is key to creating a successful product.

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